Shifting focus to *

     When you buy a Canon digital SLR, your camera will likely be configured to focus by half-pressing the shutter release button.  This is the way most cameras are configured and this is the way most people accustomed to point and shoot cameras focus their cameras.

     There is another way to shoot pictures with your DSLR.  And in my humble opinion (again, I do have to qualify, I am an amateur and still learning.  Always learning :) ), a better way to shoot.  By better, I meant that I have more success at getting more photos in focus as well as properly exposed.  Whether it is shooting a static subject using single shot or shooting a moving subject, like a bird in flight or athletes in motion, using AF Servo and multiple frames.  How you do this is by reassigning the focus function to your * button, if you're using a 450D like mine.  You can find this setting in the Custom Functions menu, under C.Fn 10.

     To learn more about this setting, and why you should use it, have a read here.  It is very well explained and provides illustrations and pictures to make it easier to understand.

     Happy reading!

FIXED!! Back Focus Problems with My 55 - 250 IS

     It's been fixed.  I finally had an opportunity to send in my EF-s 55-250 IS to Canon to have it calibrated.  If you recall, my 250 was suffering from back focus problems, which I wrote about here.  I had doubts about it as the images it produced were either equal if not marginally better than my EF-s 18-55 IS kit lens when comparing images captured at 55 mm for both lenses, which I mentioned here.  But after some thought, I finally gave in to the niggling doubts in my head (which I mentioned here).

     My experience with Canon after sales was still pleasant.  They handled my complaint professionally, and I even had a chance to speak with the technician that calibrated my 250.  The only difference was, this time, it took two weeks instead of the one week it took for them to calibrate my EF 50 f/1.8.  Also, this time, they asked me to send in everything.  My 450D as well as all my lenses - which weren't many.  I only have the 50 1.8, the 250 and my 18-55 kit lens.  It was ready for pickup by Friday evening, just as the technician promised.

     Naturally, after getting it back, I spent some time with it.  And after some first round controlled as well as real world tests, I'm happy to say that I think the lens is now fixed.  In controlled tests (see pics below), it seems almost spot on.  I say almost because at 55 mm it is almost front focusing as the subject in focus as right at the very end of the 'focus range' (I'm not sure what else to call it).  But it is still in focus.  By 70 mm, its focus is dead on and this is true all the way to 250mm.  Before I sent it in for calibration, it was back focusing below 90 mm.

     In real world tests, I had one particular picture that was a bit soft, which I at first thought was a front focus issue.  But, with the rest of the images, I hard a really hard time finding fault.  Everything seemed in focus.  So I would accept that the one soft image was a result of operator error.  The only thing now is that I feel that the images that I capture are not as sharp as what other folks capture with similar equipment.  However, I don't know if this is the result of them having better shooting techniques, or better copies of the body, or the lens or if the other folks do more post process.  My PP is limited to what the Canon DPP software can do - and even then, I have only learned maybe 30% of its features.  Also, I wish this lens had better bokeh but at RM 890, I guess its as good as I'm going to get from this lens.  So this gives me reason to look forward to the 70-200 f/2.8 L IS.

     In any case, I'm happy with the calibration results.  Below are samples from the controlled tests as well as some images from my Sunday morning walk.

1. 55 mm.  Focused on the middle box.

2. 250 mm.  Focused on the middle box.

 

3. Some real world pics.

The sharpest image is not necessarily the best

When I got my EF 50 mm f1.8 MkII lens, the thing that stayed in my mind the most was how I could take pictures that were really sharp - or tack sharp, as some would say. And my 50 did not disappoint. It is, by far, the sharpest lens I own. Of course, I only own 4 lenses, and non of them are L.

What constitutes a sharp image? Well, in my words, if I were to snap your portrait with my 50, I would be able to make out every strand of hair on your head, every pore on your face, and even the tiny hairs on your upper lip.   The image below is of my daughter, taken with my 50 @ 2.8.  This is relatively sharp.  It gets even sharper at 4.0.

Being able to capture such detail is sometimes really good. Especially when you want to portray the hardship a person has endured in his lifetime by showing the wrinkles on his face. However, if the mood you want to depict is a dreamy one, then the harsh sharpness is a no no. Or if your subject is your wife. This was very telling when, after we got back from a long weekend getaway at Cameron Highlands with over 500 photos, she mostly avoided her photos that were too sharp when posting to her facebook page.

So there you have it. Sharp is not always good. However, I will still choose a sharper lens over a soft lens any day, because with a sharp lens, I can soften the image by shooting wide open - but I'm not so sure I can improve the image quality of a picture captured by a really soft lens.

Pop up flash diffuser

     It has arrived.  The pop up flash diffuser  I ordered from Shashinki.com yesterday afternoon arrived today at around noon.  I immediately tore open the packaging and found that it came in two pieces which you have to put together.  One piece is the white shield is used to diffuse the flase, and the other piece is the black arms with a hot shoe adapter, that holds the white piece in front of the pop up flash.

This is what the diffuser looks like in action.  You can view more pics of the diffuser in my previous post.

     As soon as I got home, I started shooting some photos to get the hang of having the diffuser attached.  I've made the following observations:

• The flash still casts shadows but their not as harsh.  I found that if I put my business card between the diffuser and my flash, the card would sit at almost a 45 degree angle and deflect the light to the ceiling.  This creates pretty much an effect similar to bouncing flash off of the ceiling with the more expensive Canon external flashes.
• Its best to shoot in manual (M) mode, set the shutter speed to 1/200s and ISO to 100 to get good results.  I used this with my nifty 50 and I had extremely sharp pictures.
• If the lighting is really low, the nifty 50 has trouble focusing, even when the flash is popped up.  This is due to the fact that the diffuser is blocking out most of the strobes that the flash is emitting which the focusing mechanism normally relies on to get a focus lock.
• With the diffuser attached, the flashes reach is only enough for about 20 feet, maximum.  Beyond that, I had to start reducing shutter speed, increasing ISO and increasing aperture.  Of course, if you wanted to get creative, then non of this applies...

     Below are sample pics taken in doors with the diffuser attached.  This was just before and just after sunset.

     If you're looking for an inexpensive way to soften your flash, this is a really good solution for a really low price.  Only RM 29.50 or around US $8.  You can think of it as a poor man's solution for diffusing and bouncing flash effects!

Flash diffuser for 450D pop up flash....

     My daughter told me last night that her school is doing a prize giving session on Thursday and the parents are invited.  Typically the students will also do stage shows.  So that means I'll have an opportunity to take photos.  Which, in turn means I'll need my nifty 250 on hand. So, it looks like I have to put my plans to send in the Nifty 250 in for calibration on hold for a few days.

     Sigh...  Looks like I'll only be able to send it in next week.  On the upside, I'll have an opportunity to put the nifty 250 through its paces for an indoor event and see how it performs.  I'll also be using my 50mm MkII.  Which got me to thinking - I think I need a flash diffuser. However, I don't have one of the external flashes, just my on board, pop up flash.  So I was wondering if there is such a thing as a flash diffuser for the Canon on board flash.  This would really help to soften the light and not cast harsh shadows.  It would be really handy for macro shots too.  With this diffuser, I'd no longer need to use a piece of paper (or wrap the flash with a kleenex) to soften the light.

     So I went on the Net in search of this beast.  My first stop is naturally Shashinki.com.  I recall having seen such an accessory on this site before.  After a short time browsing, I found it (see pic below).  I also discovered that, priced at around USD 7, its no beast.

You mount it on your camera's hot shoe when you want to use it, and that's it.  In theory, simple and effective.  How effective, we'll have to find out once the item arrives.  Yes, I've ordered and paid for it at Shashinki.  Hopefully, they ship it today so that I can get it tomorrow morning.  As it is very inexpensive, trying it out was a no brainer for me.  If it doesn't work out, I'll get a really nice external flash... (after I get my 135 L that is... heheh).

     I'll post a quick review of it as soon as I receive it..

Time to decide...

EF-S 55-250 f/4-5.6 IS

     Ever since I'd discovered that my 55-250 IS was back focusing, I've had these nagging thoughts bouncing around in my head every time I shoot a picture that seems soft using this lens.  And this is in comparison to other pictures from this lens I've seen on many forums.  Its driving me nuts because I keep second guessing myself.  Is it me?  Did I not set up the shot correctly to get enough shutter speed so that it would not blur?  Sigh.  Compounding the problem is the fact that not all of the pictures are soft.  But most of them are.

Obvious back focus at 55 mm

     So, I'm thinking, to settle this once and for all, I should send the lens in to Canon for a check, and hopefully it will come back to me tuned to the sharpness I expect from this lens.  So, tomorrow morning, I shall be the first customer at the Canon After Sales office at Peremba Square.  If my experience sending in my 50 mm f/1.8 Mk II is anything to go by, I can look forward to receiving my lens this Friday.

     I'll put in an update after I get back the lens.

Sample photos from my new EF 50 mm f/1.8 Mark II

     I'm telling you, this lens is so good, I would do back flips if I knew how.  Of course, if you'd read my previous post, you would have known about the small front focus problem I had with the lens.  However, that has since been fixe by the wonderful people at the Canon After Sales Service center at Paremba Square.

     Let's not waste any time and go straight to the photos.

Image 1. Obviously, the 50 is built as a portrait lens.

Image 2. At f/1.8, its a fast lens.  I'm able to stop the motion of Abby's (my cat) scratching foot, even when shooting in her shadow.

Image 3.  Sharpness is really good for the amount of money you pay.  If you look closely, you can see the weave on my wife's headscarf.

Image 4.  Pin point accuracy.   I aimed the focus at the diamond on the ring, and nailed it.  This pic is heavily cropped, by the way.

Image 5.  The downside is the chromatic aberration.  You can see the greenish glow on parts of the metal strap of my wife's wristwatch.

There are more images here.

For RM 300, this lens is a bargain.  If you own a Canon dSLR, then you should seriously consider adding this to your arsenal of lenses.

Canon EF 50 mm f/1.8 MII

     I've got a new addition to my family of lenses.  The very popular lens that every Canon shooter must have in his bag of lenses - at least that's what almost all the Canon DSLR owners who have the lens say.   This lens is also known as the Nifty 50.

My EOS 450D wearing the Nifty 50.

     Again, before I go off telling you my story on this lens, do note that this is not meant to be a professional review.  Just an experience of a hobbyist photographer who's relatively new to this hobby.  With that said, let's start.

What's So Great About This Lens?

     The EF 50 mm f/1.8 MII is designed for taking portraits.

     The f/1.8 aperture gives this length a very, very narrow depth of field (DoF).  What this means is that I can focus on one part of my subject, which will show up very clearly in focus, whilst other parts just millimeters in front and behind it will NOT be in focus.  An example is the scale model of Michael Schumacher's F2002 below.  Note that because I've aimed the focus on the Fiat logo at the tip of the nose of the car, only that part is in focus.  The rest is blurred out.

Narrow Depth of Field

     At f/1.8 it is fast - meaning, I can take photographs in low light, with a higher shutter speed than another lens, say my kit lens, with an aperture of only f/3.5.  So the bottom line is, even at low light, because it is a fast lens (= higher shutter speeds), I am now more likely to get pictures with less blur because the subject is moving. 

The Buying Experience

     I paid RM 300 for it but I believe you can get it for as low as RM 284 if you looked hard enough.  I got my copy from dSLR, the camera shop in the Digital One section of Subang Parade.  While I was there, I tried out 3 copies of this lens.  Of the 3, two produced pictures (on the LCD) that seemed a bit dim, whilst the 3 was always bright.  However, it didn't seem like the pictures were focused on where I was aiming the camera.  But I couldn't really tell for sure.  After spending close to an hour there, I finally decided to take the third one as it always seemed to produce clear images, although the focus point was iffy.  I would later find out that this was a mistake.

Problems with the New Lens

     As soon as I got home, I of course, started to take photo after photo with the lens.  I looked at the result and was puzzled to see all the photos where either not very clear or they were clearly focused on a point different to where I was aiming.  At first, I thought I was shooting it wrong, didn't stop down the aperture enough or did not have enough lighting that the AF could not focus properly.  So I kept shooting, and I kept getting the same results.  After around a hundred shots, my suspicion heightened that it could be the focusing issue I encountered earlier at the shop.  To confirm this, I did some tests with a focus chart.

    The idea behind the focus chart test is quite simple, although it can be subject to error.  Here's how it goes:

1. You set up your camera on a tripod beyond the minimum focusing distance to the focus chart.
2. You make sure the camera is at a 45 degree angle to the plane of the chart.
3. You aim your focus at a point on the chart.
4. You take a picture.
   
5. You look at the picture to see if the part that you aimed at is clearly in focus.

     Using this setup, I consistently found that this lens was focusing about 12 mm in front of where I aimed at.  I was, to say the least, let down.  To the casual photographer, 12 mm might seem like too small a number to make a big fuss over, but when you're doing portrait photography, its a big deal.  Imagine shooting a picture of a diamond ring on a woman's hand.  You aim at the ring and you expect only the ring to be in focus, whilst everything else is a blur but what you actually get is that the lady's knuckle is in focus, and everything else, including the ring, is out of focus.

     So I sent the camera in to Canon's after sales service office in Paremba square.  That was last Thursday.  This morning, I got an SMS from Canon, indicating that my lens was ready for pickup.  So pick it up I did.  I've tested it and it now focuses accurately.

Impressions

     After using it for a short while (and after having it calibrated by Canon), I've got some early  impressions of this lens.

The EF 50 mm f/1.8 MII pictured with the rest of my modestly small collection of low cost lenses.  L to R: 18-55 mm Kit Lens, EF-S 55-250 mm, and an older EF 38-70 mm zoom lens from my EOS 888.

1. The pictures it produces, so far, are really, really good.  Of course, I'll be playing with it more in the days to come.  To qualify, I don't own any L lenses, so I can't make a valid comparison on that end.  But against all my other lenses, this one wins hands down.  I'm not sure what it is.  Perhaps it is that I can do all kinds of creative shots because of the narrow DoF.
2. Bokeh (background blur) is not as bad as what people are saying in the forums.  However, I would think this is subjective.  Other people say that the bokeh is not very good because of the fact that the shutter only has 5 blades.  I think its just find.  To each his own.
3. Build quality is plasticky and cheap.  I think everyone agrees here.
4. Focusing is bloody noisy - to the point that it is embarrassing. But, hey, it takes great pictures.
5. Best bang for the buck.  For RM 300, and for the seriously nice photos it produces, this lens definitely gives you the most bang for your buck.  And I would have to agree with what people say, even with my limited use of it so far, this lens is a must have in your collection of lenses.

That's it for now.  I'll be spending more time with this lens and posting the pictures in my gallery at Picasaweb. 

Putting my new 55-250 IS through its paces..

     After many many days of drizzling rain, thunderstorms and gloomy, overcast skies, the sun finally came out yesterday, in all its glory.  Even though I was feeling under the weather I was not going to miss this.  There was not a single cloud in the sky and it looked and felt more like a day from mid June than October.

     I wasted no time.  I gathered the troops - that's the wife and kids, and off we went to Zoo Negara (National Zoo).  With my 450d and small, but growing (to my wife's dismay...) arsenal of lenses, I went out and took photos.  Almost all the photos were taken in M (manual) mode.  I had about 70% keepers.  The balance of which were either OOF or under/over exposed or people just got in the way at the last minute.  At the end of the day, I discovered a few things:

1. A 4GB SDHC card is not enough for a single day's shoot if you're shooting RAW.
2. My 55-250 IS is really a bargain - the images are fantastic and it was quite easy to nail good shots.  However, in low light, it struggled just a little bit.
   
3. I'm feeling the need to get a good low light lens with a bit of reach.  I see an EF 135 mm f/2 L in the horizon.

Here are some sample shots taken with the 55-250 IS.  The rest of the pics from this outing can be seen here.

This is not photoshopped.  The goat was actually balancing itself on the fence.

Flamingos in the pond.

The tiger actually made eye contact with me..

This was actually the first pic.

Shashinki.com - the place for cameras, lenses, and other photography accessories online in Malaysia

     I've been going around a fair bit, visiting camera shops looking for additional gear and accessories to get for my camera.  Unfortunately, there aren't many that is located near to where I live and work.  There are a few, but not many.  And the selection of goods they carry is rather limited.

     Well, recently, I came across ShaShinKi.com.  Its an online camera store, and I believe the first of its kind, in Malaysia.  I found out about it via the forums at PhotoMalaysia.com.  I liken them to a paradise for photography junkies as you can get a wide range of gear - from camera bodies to lenses (yes even the ones that cost RM 80,000) to filters to cleaning kits to tripods to studio lights to... well, you get the idea.  I could spend hours just browsing through their online catalogue.  And from the start, I was intrigued by the store, and curious to find out what the experience would be like shopping with them.  So I decided to give it a try.  This would not be the first time I shopped online, but the first time from a Malaysian operation.

     So what was the experience like?  In a word, excellent.  I was apprehensive at first as I wasn't sure if the goods would take 1 day or 1 month to arrive.  So I decided to try with a small purchase to get a taste of their service.  I thought, if their service is good, I'll definitely continue to buy from ShaShinKi.com.  So I placed an order for a lens hood for my new EF 50 mm f/1.8 II lens.  I thought it was a small enough amount to take a risk with, in case I don't ever see my purchase or get my money back.

     The ordering was quick and painless.  Of course, you have to register yourself first, but that's only a one time process.  The order itself took less than a few minutes.  It is typical of any online shopping sites.  You select your items and you check them out.  Which leads to the payment part.  You can pay via Paypal or via any of the local banks by doing a funds transfer.  I payed for my purchase through Maybank2u.  It was quick and simple.  This was yesterday afternoon.  I intentionally put in my order in the afternoon and just as the weekend approached to see how they would handle the delivery.  Well, it went rather well.  My lens hood arrived today, before 10 am.  They've exceeded my expectation (I was expecting to get the goods next Tuesday as it was close to the weekend and Monday is a public holiday) and I'm a happy camper.  I would definitely shop at ShaShinKi.com again.  In fact, my next order is already in accumulating in the cart.

     ShaShinki.com has done well in some areas, and I'd like to point them out.

1. The main compliment I have is the shopping experience they provide.  It is quick, easy, secure, and especially reassuring.  At every step of the way, you are notified of the transaction status, from the time you load the order, to when they receive your payment, to when you order is shipped, to when it is collected by the courier, to when they start their delivery run to your address.  And you get the items fast - as in next day.  Of course, they must have it in stock - else its a 2 week wait.

2. Reward Point Program.  You get reward points for every purchase, which you can then covert to cash towards a future purchase.

3. Return of goods.  You can return goods that you bought for a refund.  This is a big deal in Malaysia as there are perhaps only one or two other establishments I know of that does this.  There are caveats though.  You have to return within 7 days.  You bear the return shipping costs and there is a re-stocking fee.  But still, I commend them for providing an avenue to their customers to return a purchase that they changed their mind on.

4. The items they send you are insured and they guarantee a replacement if it is damaged on arrival.  Touch wood, I do not want to experience this first hand, but it is great that they provide this service.

     There are some areas that they can improve on.  First and foremost is price.  Their prices are expensive and you cannot bargain.  An example is the EF-S 55-250 IS I purchased last week from a nearby store.  I bought it for RM 890.  ShaShinKi.com sells it for RM 1,150.  That's RM 260 (or approximately USD 72) more.  That's 29% more.  If they can reduce that gap to 5%, I think it would be more palatable.  Because of this huge gap, I'll limit my ShaShinKi.com purchases to merchandise that I cannot get elsewhere.

     Second is that they should introduce a proactive service to guarantee satisfaction.  I've had the unfortunate experience of buying two lenses that have focus accuracy problems.  Because of this experience, I'm reluctant to buy any precision equipment without testing it first hand.  For a small fee, maybe RM15, they can test it for me.  And they can be specific about the test for lenses - just focus accuracy and that the lens is generally in good working order.  So as a result of this test, I am guaranteed to get a lens that is properly calibrated and has no front or back focus issues.  Now, if they test it and for some reason they accidentally send out a copy of a lens with focus problem, then I should be entitled to a free exchange - no questions asked - for another copy of the same lens, and no additional shipping cost as well - because I've paid the RM 15 for them to do this.

     I believe if they improve in these two areas, the customer experience would be sooooo much better.  Not that it currently isn't.  It would just make the customer experience a better one.

     Anyway, go have a look.  Try them out.  Buy something.

DOF App for Nokia S60 Phones

     I thought that this might be a useful tool for photographers.  A DoF calculator.  I sometimes wonder how many stops to go down to get something that is behind the subject shooting to be in focus.  Like the other day, I was taking a photo of my wife and daughter but only my daughter, sitting just in front of my wife, was in focus, whilst the wife was a bit out of focus.  Had I stopped down the aperture by one more stop, I would have gotten both of them in focus.  This is the tool that will let you calculate your DoF.

You can download it here. 

Note that there are two versions, one metric and the other imperial.  Choose one that suits your needs.

Also, I don't think there is a list for which phones are compatible.  However, the author says that it works with S60 phones.  Mine is a Nokia E90, and it works great.

KL Photo Festival 2008 in Pictures - Day 1

     Here are some pics from the first day of KLPF 2008. This event continues tomorrow, which will be the final day. 

Event opens with the rhythmic thumping of chinese drums.

Part of the floor. 

An enthusiast checking out a huge L lense.

Everyone seems to be in the market for a dSLR..

You can choose any color tripod, so long as its black.

Models were also posing for you to take photos..

One of the speakers conducting a workshop.

New Camera Bag - Lowepro Flipside 300

     I just got back from the KL Photo Festival 2008 held at Berjaya Times Square.  I got myself a nice camera bag and I think I got a decent deal for it too.

     When I bought my Canon 450D, it already came with a bag, but it was kind of small as it could only fit one extra lens.  And even then, to fit the camera with the extra lens, I had to attach the 18-55 mm kit lens to the body, and store the 55 - 250 telephoto in the additional space, otherwise, everything would not fit.  So that was the reason for the new bag.

     So, because of this experience with my Canon bag, I had some criteria in mind for the new bag.  Basically, the idea was to use the current (and smaller) Canon bag for short outings, say to family gatherings, while the new, bigger bag was meant for longer trips, like holidays for example.  So in general, the criteria were the new bag:

• had to be bigger than the old one (of course... duh), but I did not want a bag that is much bigger than any normal school back pack.
• had to fit a camera body and 3 or 4 lenses, including one telephoto lens, plus cables, flash, charger, my Sony DSC-T5, memory cards, et al.
• had to be a back pack form factor.
• must be able to carry my tripod
• had to be secure from pick pockets.  I don't want anyone relieving me of my expensive EOS or lens without my knowing.

In addition, if it could take a water bottle, then that would be a plus.

     Enter the Lowepro Flipside 300.  It actually fits almost all of the criteria above.  The size is about right, as you can see from Image 1. 

Image 1.  Lowepro Flipside 300 on the right, and my Canon bag on the left.

     When you open it up, you find the inside sectioned into several compartments, allowing you to carry a camera body with a telephoto lens the size of Canon's 70 - 300 IS USM, plus 3 additional lenses, and still leave adequate space for cables, chargers, and other accessories.  See Image 2 for a view of the inside.

Image 2.  Flipside on the inside.

     A feature that I really liked is the way the bag opens up.  If you want to store or retrieve your camera or any of its lenses, you could only do it by unzipping the zipper that sits on the side of the backpack that is facing your back when you're wearing the bag.  There is no other way.  But get this.  You don't have to take off the bag to get the gear.  All you do is, and this is assuming that you're got the waist belt fastened, you slip out of both shoulder harnesses and rotate the backpack so that it is in front of you.  At this point, you can actually let go of the bag and in will sit horizontal at your waist, forming a table.  You can then proceed to unzip the bag and get what you need.  The design is genius.  Nobody can steal anything from your bag when you're wearing it as the zipper is between your bag and your backpack, and you don't have to take the bag off to access it.

     There is also a pocket on the right that lets you carry a water bottle, and a zippered compartment on the left with multiple pockets that let you carry memory card, pens, and other small stuff.

     Right on the back is a latch and a pocket at the bottom of the bag that allows you to latch your tripod onto the back of the bag, as you can see in Image 3 below.  The idea is good, but I thought the execution is weak for this particular feature.  First, your tripod does not latch securely to the bag.  If you put the bag down in a standing position, with the tripod latched to the bag, the tripod will slip out of the bottom pocket holding the tripod's feet.  Second, you'd have to carry your tripod naked, without the tripod bag.  This would expose you to scrutiny - which you might not think is a bid deal, except for when you're boarding a flight.  You'll find that sometimes, airport security will make a big deal out of it because they argue that the tripod could be used as a weapon.

Image 3.  Tripod.

     A final plus for this bag is that it comes with a lifetime warranty.  I was really impressed at first.  But upon further questioning, the sales guy told me that the warranty only covered the zippers.  Oh well, at least the zipper is covered...

     Given the entire package, I thought it was a good bag.  So I paid for it.  Actually, what sold me was the security the bag provided.  As I walked the KLPF floor, I was actually looking to buy the Flipside 200, which was slightly smaller, but in hindsight, and especially now that I'd been carrying the 300 around on my back all day, I think that the 200 would have been a bit too small for two reasons.  First, I think I'll buy at least 2 more lenses.  So that means I would eventually have a body and 4 lenses to carry around, and the 300 is perfect for that (I might even replace the 55 - 250 with an L in 2 to 3 years, but let's save that story for another day...)

     The price? RM 350.  Comparatively, I could have ordered this online for around USD 75, shipping not included.  That would have saved me a few Ringgit, but I wasn't sure it would arrive safely.  In any case, as far as delayed gratification goes, I lack the patience.  I wanted the bag, and I wanted it yesterday.  Nope, last week.

     If you'd like to find out more about this bag, have a look at the Lowepro website.

KL Photography Festival 2008

     One of the things I was keeping a lookout for, ever since rekindling my interest in photography, are events like exhibitions or seminars to attend.  Ok, ok, I have also been walking into almost every camera shop in every mall I go to looking out for lenses and accessories to add to my small, but steadily growing gear.  But that, I shall save for another post.  Fortunately for me, today is when the KL Photography Festival (KLPF) 2008 starts.  Its a two day event held, this time, at Berjaya Times Square.  There's a host of activities including talks, photo shoots with a professional model (I heard it is Amber Chia..), and the obligatory equipment sales at the booths.

     You can get some details from the PhotoMalaysia forum, where I've just signed up as a member.  The good folks from PM will also host a booth there, as I found out from the forum entries.

     So I'm looking forward to going there today to check things out, maybe learn a few tips and, of course, see if I can get any new gear for a good discount.  If you're a photo buff at any level, this would be an event you'd want to visit.

     My only gripe is that it clashes with the Valentino Rossi and Casey Stoner show a.k.a the MotoGP weekend at Sepang, which is also happening today and tomorrow.  But, since Rossi has already closed the deal this year, I guess I'll be going to KLPF, with my wife and kids in tow...

Maybe I *AM* making too much of a fuss...

     So the saga with my nifty 250 continues.  If you don't know what I'm talking about, its my new Canon EF-S 55 - 250 IS telephoto zoom lens I bought last week.  After a chat with a friend from work, I decided to test the lens to see if it suffered from back focus, as my friend had been unfortunate enough in the past to buy Canon lenses on separate occasions that all suffered from this problem.  So I did the famous back focus battery test (refer to my previous post to see what I'm talking about) and discovered that, yes, my new nifty 250 suffered the same fate, but only from focal lengths of 55 mm to 80 or 90 mm.

     After the tests, I had concluded that I would need to send the lens to Canon to be properly calibrated.  But I was still in disbelief and still upset that my lens was affected.  So I read through forum entry after forum entry to see how prevalent this problem is.  Is the nifty 250 a bad lens after all?  Were there many more like me, or am I the only unlucky one?  Is there a way to fix it myself? Is it covered under warranty?  What is the experience like dealing with the local service center?  I had many questions running through my head.

     I was glad I decided to get more information from the forums as I soon found some good advice.  And I was even more glad that I decided to follow the advice, which was, '...the tests might show you some focusing inaccuracies, but you should go out and take a couple of shots of everyday things from distances and positions that you would normally take shots from, and in good lighting conditions.  Then see if you're satisfied with the image quality...'.  And so I did.  In fact, I didn't just take a whole bunch of shots.  I decided to be a bit more systematic, and do a comparison.  Since I had the kit lens, which is the EF-S 18 - 55 IS, I could also shoot at 55 mm focal length using this lens.  Which means that I can then compare it against the same focal length photo taken with the nifty 250.  So that was what I did.  Below are photos of this exercise.

Picture 1 taken with 55-250 IS at 55 mm focal length. F/4.  Focus point is the nose.

Picture 2.  Taken with 18-55 kit lens at 55 mm focal length. F/5.6.  Focus point is the nose.

     The above are just two of the many pictures I took.  I used different F stops as well as different focus points.  The only constant was the focal length of 55 mm as that was the common parameter between the two lenses that would allow me to make a meaningful comparison.

     So the outcome?  Well, in my eyes, it looks like the 55 - 250 actually produced better results than the kit lens.  My point of comparison is the cat's nose and tongue area.  That is where the camera's AF is pointed.  The features of the cat around that point is clearer / crisper for the 55 - 250 as compared to the kit lens. Whilst the image produced by the kit lens seems softer.

     If you recall from my previous post, my indoor battery tests yielded better results for the kit lens.  So how is it now that the results are the other way round?  Is my nifty 250 suffering from back focus?  Hmmmm... I have no clue.  I am, after all, fairly new to this hobby.  One thing's for sure, I am glad that I took the advice of the good folks in the forum.  And I certainly won't send my lens for calibration.  Most importantly, I now have that 'feel good' feeling when I hold the camera armed with the nifty 250, knowing that the lens will produce good results.

     Now, I'm ready to go shoot some photos...

Back Focus Problems with My 55 - 250 IS

     I've discovered a problem with my EF-S 55-250 IS telephoto zoom.  I'm experiencing what's called back focus.  How did I make this discovery?  Well, I was having a chat with an office mate of mine, who happens to be a Nikon guy.  He was relating some of his earlier experiences with Canon, which led him to switch, and until today, remain with Nikon.   He mentioned that his previous Canon would produce pictures where the focus was behind the target that he was aiming at - or back focus.

     So, I decided to test my 450D and all my lenses to see (I only have 3) if I had this problem.  My curiosity piqued because quite a few of the photos I took were either a bit soft, or sometimes, almost blurred.  I found that my 18-55 kit lense checked out ok.  The focus was dead on.  But to my dismay, I found that my nifty 250 was experiencing this problem.   I couldn't believe it when I did the test and saw the results.  I kept repeating the test and the result was the same.

     The test itself is simple.  I used three AA batteries, arranged side by side, but is staggered away from me in terms of distance.  So the first battery is closest to me, the second is along side the first, but about a centimeter behind the first, and the third is beside the second, but a centimeter behind the second.  I set up the camera to only focus on a single point, right at the center.  I then focus on the middle battery and snap a photo.   If the camera were focusing properly, the center battery would appear in focus, whilst the first and third batteries would appear out of focus, as per picture 1 below.

Picture 1

     Well, when testing my nifty 250, I again aimed the single focus point on the middle battery, but when I took the picture, the result was that the rear battery was in focus, the middle battery was slightly out of focus, and the first battery was out of focus.  The result is shown in picture 2 below.

Picture 2

     So that meant that my telephoto lens suffered from back focus.  At this point, I'm not sure if it is just the lens or if it is a combination of the lens and the body.  But since the kit lens works perfectly fine on the same body, I logically assume that it is just the lens, until a Canon technician tells me otherwise.

     I'm quite miffed that I've got this problem.  I was told that it can be fixed by recalliberating the lens or body or both.  I just cannot understand how a major company like Canon, that prides itself on image quality above all other brands, can produce equipment with this kind of problem.  I can understand why my friend decided to abandon Canon for Nikon.  It can get very frustrating to shoot subjects for a whole day and come back for post processing and find that all your pictures are out of focus.  For my friend in particular, he had this problem with 3 consecutive lens purchases, and all of them were Canon lenses.

     I also found some remarks in forums that mentioned that the quality of the lens was dependent on where it was put together.  The remark did not imply directly but it seemed that lenses made in Malaysia were not as well put together as the lenses that came from Japan.  It just so happened that my kit lens was from Japan and my nifty 250?  You guessed it.  Made in Malaysia...  *sigh*

     The upside to this is that my problem only surfaces when I'm below 100 mm focal length.  The two pictures above where from the same lens.  The first picture is when the focal length is at its maximum 250 mm, whilst the second is when it is at its smallest 55 mm.

     Judging from just the images above, some people might say that it is to small a problem to make a big fuss about.  I thought about it for a while, thinking that I could possibly live with the lens being out of focus between 55 to 100 mm.  But then I also have intentions of producing stock photos to sell, so that made this problem unacceptable as it will mean the difference between a very clear image or an out of focus one.

     So I'll be sending my camera and lens for caliberating some time this week.  I hope Canon can turn around the job within a day or two...  *sigh*

How to take a picture of the moon...

     This may sound silly but I discovered that it's not really that easy to take a photo of the moon where you'd be able to see the features on the surface of the moon (IMAGE 1).

IMAGE 1.  100% crop. Exif: 1/400s f/5.6 ISO800 250mm (400mm @ 1.6x lens crop factor)

     I was up until around 3 am this morning trying to get this picture.  I couldn't do it any earlier because it was too cloudy.  But at around 2:30 am, the clouds went away and I had my opportunity to shoot the moon.

     So out I  went, into my front yard toting my EOS 450D and 55-250 IS.  I set up my 450D in P mode, zoomed to 250 mm, pointed to the moon, focused, and released the shutter.  My camera opened the shutter and stayed open.  For a loooong time.  The resulting image was a big bright blur in a background of black.  Darn!  (Well, actually, I muttered a different 4 letter word...) So I figured that I needed a tripod to prevent camera shake and eliminate the blur.

     So in I went to get my tripod.  I mounted the camera on the tripod and set it up for the same shot (in P mode) and released the shutter.  Again, my reaction was, Darn!  The first thing I noticed was that the image was still blurred due to camera shake, but not as bad.  The other was that the image was just one big, bright spot with absolutely no discernible detail of the surface of the moon (IMAGE 2).  So I'm like, 'Hmmmm...'  (The song, 'Things that make you go hmmmm...' by C&C Music Factory started playing in my head).

IMAGE 2.  Over exposed moon.  No details visible.

     So even with the tripod, there was still blur inducing camera shake, and there was no detail.  I figured out that the camera shake was induced by my finger pressing and releasing the shutter.  So the solution to this was to set a 2 second delayed shutter release, a feature that the 450D has.  This was helpful as I did not have a remote control shutter release.  As a safeguard, I also enabled the mirror lock up function to eliminate any vibration caused by the mirror flipping up.  So that got the blur out of the way.  But that still left the details, or lack of, which I could not understand why.

     So I kind of cheated, and went back in to find a similar picture on the net.  I checked out the exif data and discovered that it was taken at 1/250s shutter speed.  And a light bulb lit up in my head.  It finally struck me that in P mode, the camera automatically wanted to leave the shutter open for long enough so that enough light got in for a well lit photo.  In this case, enough light would be too much light, which was why the image of the moon became a big blotch of whitish yellow.

     So I went back out and redid the shot, this time engaging Tv mode, or shutter priority.  I tried various shutter speeds between 1/250s to 1/400s.  I still engaged mirror lock up and the 2 second delayed auto shutter release to prevent blur.  The camera handled the rest.  And the result is the photo you see at the beginning of this post.

     I finally had a satisfactory image of the moon.  I suppose I could have spent a bit more time trying different settings to get an even better image, but I was happy with the one that I got.  I finally decided to turn in to bed at close to 4 am this morning, with a smile on my face...

Creating a sense of speed!

     One of the reasons I badly wanted the EF-S 55-250 f/4-5.6 IS (or nifty 250 as some people are calling it) is because I am a fan of motor sports and wanted to capture images of cars whizzing past.  I'm an especially big fan of Formula 1 and have watched the Malaysian Grand Prix at the Sepang International Circuit a number of times (during the Michael Schumacher years).

     Every time I go to the race, I would take videos and photos, but I would always come home unsatisfied.  For one, the photos of the F1 cars were taken from too far away.  Another thing is that the Sony point and shoot camera that I use is just too slow to capture the action.  Whatever photos of the action that I did manage to capture is just one big blur.

     With the nifty 250, I'm able to capture images like the one below.  Notice that the picture gives you a sense of motion and speed.  The Harrier in the picture remains in focus, whilst the background is blurred, and so are the wheels.

Toyota Harrier whizzing by..  Taken with EOS 450D wearing the EF-S 55-250 IS.

EXIF: 1/30s f/5.0 ISO200 55mm (88mm @ 1.6x crop)

     So how is this achieved?  Well, here's what I did.

1. Set my camera to Tv (shutter priority)
   
2. Set shutter to 1/30
   
3. Set the AF to AI Servo
   
4. Frame the car and follow it - in the case of the photo above, I panned from left to right while consciously trying to minimize any vertical movements.  All this while, I keep the shutter pressed halfway so that the AI Servo keeps focus on the car.
   
5. Fully press the shutter release to capture the image when I feel I have a good composition.
   

     So that's how I got this picture.  You can do this with kids riding bicycles, birds flying, basically anything in motion.  However, some subjects, like kids running for instance, will likely result in the child you're trying to photograph being a bit blurred (see pic below).  This is because while the camera can 'freeze' the left to right motion, the child is also in motion up and down, hence the blur.

Not so clear because of up and down motion.  Taken with EOS 450D wearing the EF-S 18-55 IS kit lens.

EXIF: 1/30s f/8.0 ISO400 55mm (88mm @ 1.6x crop)

     So, that is how its done. Or at least, the way I managed to do it.  Again, I'm not a pro by any means, so you might want to compare notes with other photographers to see how its done.

     One final thing.  I started out this post by saying that the reason I wanted the 55-250 IS is to photograph sports cars in motion.  So how does this lens help me do it better?  Well, the key is the Image Stabilization logic that's in the lens.  The IS feature for this particular lens senses that you're panning in a particular direction, and stabilizes the axis that is not moving.  So the net effect is that it is easier to successfully capture this kind of shot.

     Until next time...

I Just Bought the Canon EFS 55-250 f/4-5.6 IS Telephoto Zoom

     I've done it. I bit the bullet and went out and bought a telephoto zoom lens for my still new Canon 450D. My 450D is barely a week old. I haven't even scratched the surface of all the great stuff I can do with the camera, and I've already bought new glass for it. So here I am to share the experience of this new lens.

     Now before I go any further, I don't intend to sound like an expert and I don't intend this to be an in depth review.  It is just a sharing of my experience as a newcomer to DSLRs.

     So how did wind up with the lens? I figured I needed this new lens because I wanted to capture candid pictures of people. No. I'm not a voyeur. Check out this picture I captured to know what I mean. I actually took that shot with my kit lens which has a maximum focal length of 88 mm at 1.6x crop factor. But I was so far away and had to crop the photo significantly to frame that picture the way I wanted it. Now if I had a telephoto zoom lens, I would be able to zoom in and perhaps get more detail in the photo. Of course, there are other ways to use the lens and I'll probably talk about my adventures with this new lens as I experience them.

     So the new glass? Its the EFS 55-250 f/4-5.6 IS below. 

     I got it off of dSLR at Subang Parade for about RM 890 (or USD 251).  It was retailing for RM 1,098 (or USD 310). Here are pictures of the EFS 55-250 IS lens in comparison with the original 450D kit lens, which is the EFS 18-55 IS.

EFS 55-250 IS vs EFS 18-55 IS

Fully extended.

EOS 450D wearing the EFS 55-250 IS

Worthy Alternatives

     Granted, there is a worthy alternative in the EFS 18 - 200 IS lens that Canon just released, which would serve as a great walk about lens due to its end to end focal range.  It is also a faster lens with apertures between f/3.5-5.6. However, that lens is still relatively new.  There were not many reviews that I could find.  Furthermore, and what is really the case is that I really wanted as much telephoto zoom for my buck as possible.  And I don't really mind the hassle of having to change lenses to get the appropriate focal length.

Features I Wanted

     There are basically 3 features that were critical to me in deciding on this lens and they are, Telephoto Zoom, Image Stabilization, and mode 1 and 2 capability.  The telephoto zoom is an obvious capability so I won't mention anything about that. 

Image Stabilization

     Obviously, the EFS 55-250 IS comes with image stabilization.  Based on the specs, Canon claims that it affords up to 4 stop compensation.   However, I found that if I just zoomed in on the subject and press the shutter release, I still get some blurring at slower shutter speeds.  I found that the trick to getting non-blurred pictures is to hold the shutter release button down halfway for at least 2 to 3 seconds first before pressing it all the way down.  I came across this tip from a review I read, which, for the life of me, I can't recall from which site.  Apparently, based on the article, it takes a second or two for the IS mechanism to kick in.  When I reflect on it, it could also be that by holding the button down halfway for 2 seconds, my hands are also steadier, so therefore there is less camera shake as well.

IS When Panning

     One of the types of images I wanted to capture was when my subjects were in motion - say my daughter on her bicycle.  And I wanted to create a sense of speed.  You can do that with any lens that does not have IS, but your chances of getting successful shots off where, in the case of my daughter on her bicycle, the subject is in clear focus but her tires and the background is blurred, is higher if your Canon lens has a mode 1 and 2 switch.

     Unfortunately, the EFS 55-250 IS does not does not have a mode 1-2 switch.   This was a deal breaker for me.  However! I found that based on Canon specs, the EFS 55-250 IS actually has this capability built it and it automatically detects of you're panning vertically or horizontally and would automatically stabilize camera shake in the non moving axis.  Now, I'm not sure how effective this is as compared to a hard switch as I have yet to give it a try, but because the feature is built in, it helped make up my mind to buy the lens.

Image Quality

     Of course, image quality is a concern as well.  However, I'm a hobbyist, so my expectations are probably not as high as the pros carrying full frame bodies with a bag full of L lenses.  But I do want decent quality, at the very least, better than the point and shoot cameras.  As well, I'd like to be able to get this type of picture quality from a distance and with natural lighting, hence the 450D and 55-250IS combination.  So what's the quality like?  Here's a picture below.  You be the judge.  You can also view more photos taken with this lens here.

EOS 450D+ EFS 55-250IS.  Format = RAW. Focal Length = 250mm. Shutter Speed = 1/640.  Aperture = f/5.6

Zoom

     What does the telephoto zoom do for you?  Well, the two pictures below were taken at opposite ends of the focal length and gives you an idea.  I was standing approximately 34 feet away from the flower (measured with my trusty Bushnell laser range finder that I sometimes use for golf).

     A point to note here, and if you're a seasoned DSLR user with an APS-C based body like my EOS 450D, you'll already know this.  But if you're not, then I should explain that the camera has a crop factor of 1.6x.  I won't go into the technical details of why.  You can Google 1.6x crop factor or just check wikipedia to get the technical nitty gritty of it.  But what that does is it impacts the effective focal length of the lens.  Because of the 1.6x crop factor, the 55-250 mm lens has an effective focal length of 88 - 400mm.

Focal length = 55mm (equivalent to 88mm)

Focal length = 250 mm (equivalent to 400mm)

Negatives

     So far, I've only had one problem with this lens and body combination, and that is that I now cannot fit all my gear in my Canon camera bag (that came free with the camera) if the 55-250 IS lens is attached to the body. The lens is too long.  The camera and lens alone fit nicely in the bag.  But then, there will be no space for my two other lenses.  So to fit everything,  I need to attach the 17-55 to the body instead of the 55-250. Only then can the body and 3 lenses, my Sony DSC-T5, chargers, et all fit the bag.  So take a wild guess at what will be the next new purchase.

     Any other negatives? Well, one item I want to touch on is more of a wish list than a negative.  I would have liked a lower f number.  This lens is only f/4, but I suppose getting a faster lens means paying a higher price.  Also, I suppose were I a pro, I might have more to say, especially where image quality is concerned.  Perhaps, over time, as I use the lens more, I might discover certain dislikes.  But for now, and for my purposes, this lens is a winner.